The American Riviera

Last weekend wanting to escape from the daily grind of a stressful job (Stephen) and after having failed the driving test (me) we decided to hop on the trainline called the Amtrak Surfliner.
The nearest station is in Moorpark, we would go by cab and see where the train would take us. At first we toyed with the idea of going to San Diego and then thought Santa Barbara would be closer. Basically this one line, the Amtrak Surfliner, goes North and South along the Pacific coast. So we took our rucksacks (here: backpacks) and set off. Santa Barbara is only one hour away on the train and we thought we'd check out the "American Riviera". There are only three trains a day, and Moorpark is not even a station, just a stop. The train ride was very nice, along the beach sometimes overlooking the shore, through towns like Camarillo, Ventura,... Quite a few Americans have come and parked their campervans by the sea for the weekend.
Santa Barbara has a lovely little station very close to the beach. Last weekend was a bank holiday for Americans, Memorial Day weekend, celebrating American troops throughout history and as we arrived in Santa Barbara, we went to the beach and saw a pacifist demonstration. Arlington West: www.veteransforpeace.org. Veterans from various conflicts had set up this memorial with 3,000 white crosses commemorating the lives of all the American victims of the war in Iraq. They invited people to reflect on the meaning of war, with slogans and recommendations. We spoke to an old man, and were amazed when he replied in a perfect French: " Ma femme est de Charentes-Maritimes", and telling us he was Austrian and fought in the Second World War with the American troops and had taken part in the liberation of Italy. He knew what a war was and that is why he was campaigning for Peace. We were very impressed to have met someone who had lived through History and was willing to share his thoughts and memories.
On the first day we stayed by the sea and walked on the pier, sat by the Ocean and soaked in the atmosphere. On the second day we went to visit the Old Mission and stumbled across the I Madonnari Festival, a street art festival on the grounds of the mission to sponsor the Children’s' Creative Project. There were jazz and salsa bands, kids dancing, drawing and barbecues. The artists using chalk on the tarmac to produce amazingly colourful compositions that will only last until it next rains. Tigers roaring, water lilies, planets in danger, reproductions of Dali, symbolic and religious scenes, there were about fifty pieces of art to admire, the whole thing was very eclectic. The crowds were strolling in the alleys left to walk and admire the art. The artists were still drawing and talking to people. We carried on the visit of the Santa Barbara Mission, which is the best preserved mission among twenty one Franciscan Spanish Missions built at the end of the eighteen century along the Pacific Coast. The missions were evangelising the local Natives, the Chumash, with overall less damage than when California became part of the USA. Then the Natives were not treated as citizens, could not own property and could be shot on sight. Still, Missionaries changed deeply the lifestyle of the Native Americans and conversion to Catholicism was compulsory. Then it became more peaceful.
Then we walked through the town, a Real Town! With Buses! A town centre! Botanic gardens, an Art Gallery! And Art fims! Amazing! Even an organic market! How naughty of me to be sarcastic of Thousand Oaks, but I have forgotten what it feels like not to ride my bike along or cross the Road 101, my favourite motorway, to do anything! Any direction here is given as “in the parking lot of Vons/ in the parking lot of Target”…
On the third day we explored the town center, which has very nice courts of justice, County Courthouse, a 1920’s Spanish style building, with Tunisian influence. Basically this is the style of the whole town since it was completely rebuilt after the earthquake of 1925. Yet an old Spanish fortress, il Presidio, is still standing. We fell in love with a quirky second-hand bookshop on Santa Barbara Street, which seems to have the perfect selection for anyone who is keen on American and world Literature…
The Santa Barbara Museum of Art is small but holds a beautiful collection of European paintings and sculptures, including a lovely Chagall, Matisse, Braque, Bonnard. Dufy. The Asian art collection was a real discovery, guided by an American architect who had lived in China. Another walk to the beach through the organic market, and it was time to take the train. We could live here, and I can see why it is called the American Riviera, "un peu de Douceur de Vivre" by the Pacific Ocean, wineries nearby, palm trees lining the beach. We'll come back again. Back on the train, vast carriages with very big seats. It is not so bad to be here.
Photo Album: http://picasaweb.google.com/L.PonsWood